Friday, May 13, 2016

5/13/16 Wildflowers, Deserts and Canyons (Texas and Arizona)










Pool and Beach Coronado Condo
After Christmas in St Augustine we left on December 30 for an anticipated 2.5 month stay in Panama to finalize our resident visa and enjoy the beach in Coronado and the mountains of Boquete. Unfortunately, after only 2.5 weeks in Coronado, Panama, we had to return home to St. Augustine for Bob to have rotator cuff surgery on his right dominate shoulder. We felt that the extensive recovery and Physical Therapy would be better closer to family and friends.  

 
The surgery went well except that Bob unexpectedly went into Arial Fibrillation (A-Fib) in the recovery room; thankfully, he converted to regular heart rhythm overnight in the hospital.  He had never had a heart issue before that.  Bob is still doing PT for his shoulder while we travel; and has good range of motion, although he is careful to not lift much weight with it yet.   
With all going well for Bob’s surgery recovery, and no more A-Fib issues as per the St. Augustine cardiologist, we departed on our 2016 RV Ramblin’ trip in early April.  Unfortunately, instead of a quick 4-day trip across the country to reach Tucson AZ, Bob went into A-Fib again and we ended up spending 4 days in Kerrville TX, 50 miles west of San Antonio. Bob went through a series of specialized heart tests in San Antonio. Fortunately, these tests eliminated all serious coronary heart diseases. The cardiologist there put Bob on cardiac medications to control his A-Fib and reduce the risk of stroke. 
"Memorial" Cowboy Boot and Texas Bluebonnets

While waiting for test results in Kerrville TX, we had the opportunity to spend some time in the  hill country.  We parked our RV along the upper Guadalupe River, a beautiful fast “stream” with banks shaded by “old” cypress trees.  Spring was everywhere, with the beautiful spring green colors in the trees, bushes and grasses.   The wildflowers were blooming everywhere, even along all the roads; the Blue Bonnets were especially beautiful. 



Texas Wildflowers
We spent two days just driving through the beautiful countryside and spending a little time at the cute towns, like Kerrville and Fredericksburg; the childhood home of US Navy Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz. There is a fabulous World War II Pacific War museum, locally known as the Nimitz Museum, in Fredericksburg.   It is incredible, so plan to spend a full day in this excellent museum if you go; after 4 hours we still had more than half the museum left  to see.  The hill country area has been inundated with retirees who love the area and we can see why.  If it wasn’t so hot in the summer, we might consider living here (yes, we know there is no ocean nearby).  


 
Saguaro Cactus Bloooming
After getting medications in Texas, we left for Tucson and the Saguaro National Park.  Unfortunately, we ended up in an emergency room in Tucson with Bob in A-Fib again, and Bob was admitted.  After 3 days and different medications, Bob was released.  Our cardiologist wanted Bob to come back to Tucson in 2 weeks for a follow-up.   

After Bob’s hospital stay in Tucson; we finally got to spend one day in the Saguaro National Park and at the Desert Museum - an excellent museum that covers all aspects of the desert.  As in TX, the AZ desert was in bloom.  Everything that blooms in the spring was in color – even the Saguaro cactus had flowers on the tops.  The weather was perfect – not too hot or cold and we enjoyed our shortened stay.  We had to leave on time as we had campground reservations at the Grand Canyon NP which were made over 1 year ago.  While driving north, we had the opportunity to have dinner in Phoenix with Linda’s niece, Kristin Puma.  She has two beautiful sons and our visit was much too short.  
Casa Grande 4 Story Pueblo
 
 
 
We stopped at Casa Grande Ruins, between Tucson and Phoenix, which is one of the largest prehistoric structures ever built in North America.  Archeologists have discovered evidence that the people who built Casa Grande (Great House) and its surrounding compound also developed wide-scale irrigation farming and extensive trade connections which lasted over a thousand years until about 1450 AD.  It is thought that climate change which caused the area to become drier, and their own success which caused overpopulation, both contributed to the rather rapid demise and dispersing of these people and other similar civilizations in the SW. 



Yearling Elk Grazing by our RV
As everyone knows, the Grand Canyon is awesome, but to a geologist and his interested wife, it is really something special.  It is impossible to see in a picture or a video of the enormous scale of the place….it is 1 mile deep and over 10 miles wide. The “trail of time” walk that runs along the rim helps to put the timeline of the rock layers and geology into perspective.   The sunsets were fabulous, but it got cold quickly at night.  We wore winter clothes at night and Linda had to wear gloves in order to take pictures.  Our campground was full of elk - they lay down beside the RVs and cars, and we saw a California Condor in action!   Even this early in the season, the lodges and campgrounds were full; however, not as busy as during the summer.  We really enjoyed seeing the South Rim from the top this time – the last time we were at the Canyon was in 2000 (or 2001?) when we did a 10-day raft trip down the Colorado River.  Both were marvelous experiences.  The North Rim was still snowed in and closed, so we plan to go there next year, during the summer.
 
Grand Canyon near Sunset
 

Lake Powell Early Morning Reflections
From the Grand Canyon, we moved east and north of Flagstaff to Page AZ and Lake Powell.  Lake Powell is a reservoir, formed by flooding Glen Canyon with the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam, upstream of the Grand Canyon, and is the second largest man-made reservoir in the US.   In order to build the dam, a bridge had to be first built; the nearest river crossing was over 70 miles upstream, a 200 mile trip to get from one side of the dam to the other.  That bridge is now Rt. 89, just below the dam.  The Lake took 11 years to fill.  When we were there, the lake was about half way between its high water in 1980, and it’s low water in 2005 – about a 400 ft difference.  The high water mark is seen as a “bathtub” ring around the lake; discoloration of the rock due to water incursion.  The lake is beautiful and HUGE; from the dam it extends 186 miles long (when full), has over 1960 miles of shoreline and over 96 major side canyons.  It is a house boaters dream (need at least 2 weeks to really reach some of the more remote areas).   

Rainbow Bridge 1983 (NPS)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
One of our best days, was the boat ride on Lake Powell to Rainbow Bridge National Monument: it can only be reached by boat.  It was a beautiful, warm, sunny day with no wind when we took our ride to see it.  Rainbow Bridge is one of the world’s largest known natural bridges, and is considered sacred to American Indians.  When Lake Powell is full, the water extends right up to and even under the bridge.  When we visited, we had a 1.5 mile hike uphill to reach the bridge.   
 
Monument Valley
We left our coach in Page and we spent a day visiting Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods, and the San Juan River Goosenecks.  Monument Valley is one of the definitive images of the American West.  The isolated red mesas and buttes surrounded by empty, sandy is entirely within the Navajo Reservation.  There is one main road through Monument Valley, US 163.  There are dirt roads that can be taken to see the more remote buttes; but this must be done with a Navajo guide and a permit.  We only traveled along Rt. 163 on our way to see other sights in the area.  In the morning, it was so windy that there was a sandstorm and we couldn’t see anything.  Thankfully, by the time we returned, the wind had died and we got a good look at it. 


Valley of the Gods
We much preferred Valley of the Gods, near Mexican Hat.  It is a hidden gem with scenery similar to that of nearby Monument Valley, but without the tribal restrictions; isolated buttes, towering pinnacles and wide open spaces that seem to go on forever.  A 17-mile drive dirt road winds through the valley; it is bumpy with steep sections.  We loved the fun drive in our Jeep Cherokee and it was mostly deserted.  We started out with an overcast and windy day, which limited visibility, but by the time we had finished, the weather cleared and the views were fabulous. 


Moki Dugway 11% unpaved road with switchbacks

We stumbled onto the Moki Dugway, just past the Valley of the Gods, north on Rt. 261.  It is a staggering, dirt switchback road carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa.  It consists of 3 miles of steep (11% grade), unpaved, switchbacks, which wind 1200 feet down to the valley floor.   We had originally planned on coming south to Monument Valley on Rt 261, but the Moki Dugway would not have been passable with any RV.  It was lucky that we ended up doing it as a day trip from Page in our Jeep rather than later in our RV.
 
San Juan River "Goosenecks"
From the top of Cedar Mesa, we had fantastic views of the Valley of the Gods, and the Goosenecks State Park, where the San Juan River winds and carves it way through the desert 1200 feet below.   Here, you can see a rare geologic formation, known as an entrenched meander; a meandering stream that has cut deeply into the landscape.
 
 
 
Antelope Canyon Ray of Light
Antelope Canyon Sand Fall
One of the most photogenic locations in Page was a trip through Antelope Canyon, a slot canyon.  Except for mid-day, no light enters the canyon, but at that time you can see light shafts shine into the slot.  Linda got some great pictures at noon on a photographic tour.  The photography of the smooth water-worn walls of cross-bedded sandstone is an indication of the danger during a rainstorm, and in fact, during the rainy season, the tours are often cancelled due to flash flood dangers. 

Just like during our sailing and cruising adventure, we have to fix things in “exotic” places.  In Tucson, while Bob was in the hospital, we had a mobile mechanic replace our aging 6-year old house and starting batteries (we should have done it in St Augustine). In Page, Bob replaced the in-dash back up camera monitor that failed in Texas.  We did a few other repairs so our coach, and it should be really ready for the next segment of our trip. We feel sorry for cruisers (sea and land) who do not have some self-maintenance capabilities or easy access to replacement parts.


Panama City
While in Tucson, we finally heard from our Panamanian lawyer that we had been approved for our resident visas in Panama, and that we needed to return to finalize the documents.  We arranged to travel to Panama from Page AZ in conjunction with our return to the Tucson cardiologist for Bob’s follow-up thread mill stress test. Bob’s meds are working great and the Cardiologist gave us a “good to go” report.    

 

Petrified Forest Logs
 
We left our RV in Page to go back to Tucson and Panama.  Along the way, we stopped at the Petrified Forest NP and enjoyed a few good meals along the historic Route 66 (we forgot about Winslow).  Driving through Salt River Canyon on the way to Tucson was impressive. After a 3-day trip to Panama, we returned with our permanent resident visas.  No illegal entry for us!

 

We are now headed to Utah and the “Grand Circle” of:  Zion, Bryce, Capital Reef, Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, before we head further north.  We hope that we will not have any additional significant diversions, now that health, coach repair and legal requirements all seem to be in order. 

In spite of the health issues (no A-Fib since Tucson) and travel delays, we are having a grand time seeing this fantastic country.  We are immensely grateful to God and good doctors. We feel truly blessed that Bob’s medical situations are being managed and we are looking forward to less stressful adventures as we move north into Utah and then Wyoming, Montana and Canada.  

Let us know how you are doing and keep in touch.   

Best, 

Linda and Bob

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