Saturday, August 5, 2017

8-5-17 Waterfalls Galore, Funky Town, and Oregon Friends (No OR)

No Oregon Coast
From the high desert of Bend, Oregon, we headed west and north to Portland and the Columbia River Gorge, then further west to Astoria and the northern coast to complete our visit to Oregon.  

Baja Peninsula
Our first stop from Bend was in Lebanon, to visit with our “new” friends, Don and Linda Gerig.  We met them last September while on a Lake Chelan boat trip in the Washington Cascades and discovered our mutual interests of motorhomes and Baja, Mexico.  They and their Mexican relatives own an RV park and houses near LaPaz Baja, and they drive their motorhome to the Baja from Oregon every year for a few months stay.  During our Christmas trip last year to the Baja peninsula, we stopped at their RV Campground and met their niece; we missed Don & Linda by a few days – they were “camping” and enjoying life on a Baja Sea of Cortez beach.   

Linda G, Bob, Linda M, Don wine tasting
Since we missed them in La Paz, when Don & Linda invited us to stop by their Lebanon Oregon home, we took them up on their kind offer.  We parked our coach in one of the RV parking spots they have created on their beautiful 13 acre “wedding venue” property, which they rent for weekend weddings. A great business concept successfully managed by Don’s daughter in law. We had a fun filled few days with them tasting wine at the Willamette Valley as well as consuming Don’s own “estate” (home grown and bottled) fruit wine on their backyard deck overlooking the beautiful “backyard”.  Before leaving, we helped Don bottle some of his quite good fruit wine – we particularly liked the blackberry.  We had a great time and it is interesting how you sometimes can quickly make friends in the darndest places! 

Linda hiking BEHIND Silver Falls
While there, we took a day trip to Silver Falls State Park and hiked part of the “Trail of 10 Waterfalls”.  Differential erosion of the very hard basalt rock layers over softer rock has formed waterfalls with large “caves” under the waterfall’s edge.  It was fun to hike behind the waterfalls at several of the falls and actually watch the water fall from “behind” the water; we have seen so many from the front, this was different and the mist was nice and cooling.  

International Rose Test Garden, Portland
To our surprise, the City of Portland was smaller than we anticipated, and with a huge traffic problem.  It is sandwiched between hills and the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia Rivers.  Much of the waterfront is industrial and we could not find a great place to just sit and watch people and boats go by.  The traffic was horrible; we quickly learned to plan our excursions either before or after rush hour traffic, or travel outside the city.  Similar to Seattle, the hills, water, and early development have caused constrains on upgrading the road system.  One bridge we had to use to drive into the City or to go south was on Interstate 5;  a 2-lane bottleneck on a 4 and 5 lane highway! Not sure why they don’t find a way to build another bridge.  
Unique Color Rose in Test Garden, Portland
Serenity in Japanese Garden, Portland

We enjoyed the downtown venues we visited.  Most beautiful were the extensive gardens; we especially enjoyed the awesome rose collection at the International Test Rose Garden and the very serene Japanese Gardens.  Skyline Drive at the top of the hills to the west of downtown provided only an occasional view of downtown in between overgrown tall and thick trees.  We enjoyed sampling a few of the many distilleries, wineries and coffee houses in and around Portland.  It seems to us that there is more drive up coffee/espresso stands than there are gas stations!  The pure number of “body-warming” liquids available at these locations is probably an indication of the usual cold, damp, weather.  However, we enjoyed great warm summer weather which included a lot of sunshine and no rain (foggy one morning, but gone by noon). 

Spruce Goose, Evergreen Air and Space Museum
We made quite a few day excursions outside the city.  A visit to the Evergreen Air and Space Museum was fun.  It houses an excellent collection of planes, but the BIG draw is to see the Spruce Goose, the huge wooden airship designed and built by Howard Hughes.  There is also a space museum building.  We would recommend a visit. 

Mt Hood over Mirror Lake
We took a day drive around the south end of Mt Hood which was enjoyable and beautiful.  Mt Hood towers over the Portland skyline (you can also see Mt. St. Helen from town).  The Mt. Hood Scenic Byway is beautiful, with several glacial lakes at the base of Mt. Hood.  Timberline Lodge, situated at the tree line of Mt Hood, is another example of a beautiful historic (depression-era) lodge.  The lodge is the base for climbers ascending the mountain, and there is year round skiing available.  It is funny to see people in ski clothes carrying skis when we are in shorts and tee shirts!    

Larry, Bob and Linda
While in Portland, we spent quality time with Larry Munkres, a very long-time friend (we don’t call them “old” friends anymore); fellow geologist and naval intelligence officer.  Bob has known Larry since 1967 in Navy Officer Candidate School and Pensacola flight school.  We were able to share some great meals and fabulous memories. Larry and his friend Judy even joined us for an extended lunch at our RV.  It was great to see Larry again since he visited us at Four Vistas in Shingle Springs, CA.  Interestingly, we unexpectedly met Larry on the street in Hilo Hawaii many years ago. We always have a grand time whenever we get together.  

Vista House Overlooking Columbia River Gorge
The Columbia River Gorge was our next stop.  Directly east of Portland, the gorge extends for 75 miles along the Columbia River.  The topography on the north (Washington) side is very different from the southern Oregon cliffs.  On the Oregon side, the cliffs extend straight up from the river, often with minimal room for a road and railroad (which preceded any roads by many years).  The high cliffs have an incredible number of beautiful, tall waterfalls right along the road; the melting snow and glaciers on Mt Hood provide a year-round supply of water.  The north side is gently sloped, with many farms and ranches along the way.   


Columbia Gorge Sternwheeler, Cascades Locks
The drive along the Oregon shore of the Columbia River is beautiful and has been a tourist destination for decades, even before the roads were built.  Prior to the roads, carriages and boats (sternwheelers and sidewheelers) were the main means of travel.   We enjoyed a day trip on a sternwheeler out of Cascades Locks, similar to those used in the late 1800s.   The river used to be very difficult to navigate with a lot of rapids and even some falls - described eloquently by Lewis and Clark in many interesting historical exhibits and museums along their 3 year route.  However, with construction of the Bonneville Dam (which we toured) and 14 other dams throughout the river and tributaries (including the Snake), the Columbia is now a series of long stretches of flat, but rapidly flowing water.  The dams provide much needed flood control and provide most of the electrical power needs of the northwest. With the constant strong winds coming up river, it is now a wind surfing and kite boarding meca.  

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Gorge
We camped right in the heart of the waterfall section at a state park on the Oregon side and managed to see and hike almost all of the numerous waterfalls and beautiful vistas as far east as The Dalles.  The waterfalls were all quite beautiful and with the huge snow this past winter, all were fully flowing.    
Close up, Waterfall, Columbia River Gorge

Astoria Column
We went back to the coast for our final stop in Oregon.  We camped in Fort Stevens State Park, just west of Astoria, on the huge sand spit formed by the Columbia River at the Pacific Ocean.  Astoria, a fun but funky former lumber, shipping, and fishing community of 8,000 residents, bills itself as the oldest western city in the US; who knew? While there are no wineries nearby, there are many craft beer breweries. This is good for a fishing and lumber village transitioning to a tourism-based town.  We visited the Lewis and Clark National Monument to see the site where Lewis and Clark spent their last winter before heading back east (last year we toured the sites where Lewis and Clark initially arrived at the Pacific Ocean).  The Maritime Museum in Astoria is a must-see if you are there!     

35 Foot Tall Cape Meares Light
We spent one day driving south along the coast, and stopped at numerous overlooks and bays.  South of the Columbia River delta, the northwestern coast is dominated by erosion resistant volcanic (Columbia River Basalt Group) headlands interspaced by small bays made by creeks and rivers (much like the southern Oregon coast).  We stopped at the “shortest” lighthouse, only 38 feet high above the ground!  Of course, it was on top of a very high cliff, so it still could be seen 20 miles out to sea. This light is no longer in operation; only two lighthouses are operational in Oregon.  With sightseeing on this last section of coast completed, we have now, at one time or another,  driven the entire Pacific coast of the lower 48, and have visited every lighthouse along the way! 

Northern Oregon Coast
Because we had no internet or TV connections in the state park, we took advantage of the excellent facilities and hospitality at the Astoria and Seaside Elks Lodges and American Legion Posts.  There is always a welcoming group of people and a great watering hole when traveling.   

One of the interesting and unusual things we found in Oregon, we laughingly call the “No Unemployment Law”.  All gas stations require that attendants pump the gas.  Considering the number of gas stations in the state, this probably noticeably reduces the unemployment rate.  What is funnier, is that you still have to get out of the car to clean the windshield….they only pump the gas as required by law.   

USCG Rescue Ship Crossing Columbia Bar (USCG photo)
Bob had always wanted to cross the Columbia River entrance channel bar; the bar is 3 miles long and considered one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world.  Because of the huge volume of water coming down the Columbia River, the conditions of the river water meeting the sea swell and waves in such a wide inlet routinely causes huge, steep waves that even the largest ships have trouble navigating.  The US Coast Guard trains their Search and Rescue crews to use their self-righting rescue boats on this bar.   

Bob's Limit of 2 Salmon
Bob wanted more of a challenge, but the ocean was behaving itself while we were there, so there were no huge waves to be seen (only a very normal 6 foot swell).  The only way Bob could “cross the bar” was to go on a deep sea fishing trip.  He went fishing on a 50 foot boat, unspectacularly crossed the bar, fished around Buoy #2, and had fun catching his limit of two salmon – one Coho (silver) and one Chinook.  As with commercial fishing, the catch limit allowed has decreased significantly over the past few years, and you can only keep hatchery raised fish; he had to release all the “wild” salmon he caught.   Bottom line, it appears the salmon are being fished out (we were told that regulations and economics are making it difficult for private hatcheries to make any money, therefore fewer and fewer).    We are glad we now have a freezer of salmon to enjoy – Thanks Bob!   

This finishes up our visit to the west coast and we are now headed east, with a few stops along the way.  Next destination: drive across Washington,  Idaho and Montana to the Dakotas and the plains.   

Again and with each blog we write, we remind ourselves how blessed and fortunate we are to be healthy and able to make this wonderful trip.  We continue to be very grateful!

Feel free to pass the blog link on to anyone who might be interested.   

Best to all,
Linda and Bob  

 

 

 

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