Saturday, October 28, 2017

10-28-17 Balloons, the Fabulous SW and Good Friends and Family (NM, TX, MS, AL, FL)

 
Balloon Fiesta, Albuquerque
From the Grand Canyon North Rim and Phoenix we started our long trek east and south back toward Florida for the winter.  We had planned a few more stops along the way, with a long stay in Albuquerque and the surrounding New Mexico highlights.

Bob Standing on the Corner
While we drove east from Flagstaff AZ on I-40, we deviated slightly to go thru Winslow AZ on Historic Route 66.  Bob likes Jackson Brown’s music, particularly the song “Standing on the Corner”, so he wanted to take his picture standing on the corner with Jackson Brown’s stature while listening to never-ending song from the tourist “trap” on the corner - a brief moment of fun for Bob looking for that famous blond in the flatbed truck.  
 
 
 

La Ventana Arch, El Malpais Ntl Monument
We made a short stop in Grants, New Mexico, where we visited El Malpais National Monument, a badlands area caused by 60,000 years of volcanic lava flows that filled a long river valley, making it almost impossible to transverse.   In addition to the lava flows, it contained volcanic craters and cinder cones and lots of ash.  

1692 Spanish Grafitti, El Morro Ntl Mon
Just beyond the badlands to the west, was El Morro National Monument, a high sandstone cliff standing straight out of the plains and seen for miles around, used by travelers for centuries as a major landmark.  The most welcomed aspect of the landmark was the reliable, year-round pool of water at the base of the cliff (it was not a spring, but rain water), which was often life-saving for the travelers as they traversed the arid high desert.  Graffiti, in the form of petroglyphs and pictographs from the ancestral Puebloans, and names and dates carved in the cliffs from the Spanish, the US Military during the Indian wars, and finally the European Settlers…they all left their mark.  It was fun to walk along the cliff base and read some of the entries, many of which were quite eloquent.    

Balloon  Fiesta, Albuquerque
We spent 10 days in Albuquerque, and enjoyed quality time with our good friends from St. Augustine, Dom and Jan Vita, who were visiting Jan’s sister Karen, who lives in Albuquerque.  The reason for the timing of our visit to Albuquerque was to be able to attend Balloon Fiesta, the largest international ballooning event in the world.    

GloDeo,  Balloon Fiesta, Albuquerque
 
We selected two events to experience.  The first was the Unusual Shape GlowDeo, which we enjoyed with Dom, Jan and Karen.  The Unusual Shape balloons are NOT the traditional round or tear-drop shape, but were all “characters” like Darth Vader, the Wells Fargo stagecoach, a NM cactus, etc.   It is held in the evening, when the winds are usually too strong for balloons to ascend into the air.  The balloons are tethered to the ground, but still filled with hot air.  It starts at sunset and goes well into the dark night.  When the balloons light the propane gas to keep the balloons filled with hot air, the balloons “light up” from the inside.  As you watch, the balloons appear to be flashing on and off from the inside.  Every five minutes or so, they countdown the time, and all the balloons light up at the same time.  It was a fun experience, and we walked through the huge field looking at all the various balloon shapes.  We had only finished half the field and balloons when it was over.  

Mass Ascension, Balloon Fiesta
We got up at 3am to drive to the Balloon Fiesta for the Saturday morning mass ascension, our second fiesta event.  Over 500 balloons, mostly colorful round or tear-drop shaped balloons (but some of the unusual shapes also), ascend from the field.  The “Dawn Patrol”, an early group of about 10 balloons rises about 6am to test the air flows for the remaining balloons.  About 7am, the rest of the balloons start to rise.  The balloons take off in rows, with the individual balloons staggered so that only one balloon rises at any time, to minimize mid-air collisions on takeoff.  It was incredible to watch.  By the time we left about 9am, the sky was filled overhead with balloons….the wind died about half way through the event, and many balloons were just hovering over the field and actually landing nearby.  It was unbelievable to see so many colorful balloons right overhead…it was like a sky full of stars.  If you have not had the chance to see this event, it might be one for your “bucket list”.  

San Felipe de Neri, Old Town Albuquerque
We enjoyed a lot more that Albuquerque had to offer.  We loved visiting “Old Town” with Dom, Jan and Karen. The heart of Old Town is a historic plaza, with the oldest mission church in Albuquerque, San Felipe de Neri. The Plaza itself was small.  When Albuquerque was first settled by Duke Albuquerque, the Plaza and Church were the heart of the town.  When the railroad came to town, the center of town moved about 2 miles away. The plaza became very quiet and surrounded only by homes.  Over time, it became somewhat of a tourist destination and glitzy, but has now converted to a somewhat artsy, restaurant area…a nice place to stroll around and just relax.   

Old Town Plaza, Albuquerque
New Mexico is known for its own cuisine based on red and green chilies. We had a great lunch on the terrace at a really old restaurant which has “certified” New Mexico chilies – “certified” green chilies only come from Hatch NM. Hot, but tasty – wish we could get them fresh in Florida.  

Dragon Lantern, Chinese Lantern Festival
We also spent an evening with our friends at the Chinese Lantern Festival; a small venue with a lot of Chinese themed lanterns, or shapes with lights, that focused on themes special or spiritual to the Chinese culture.  We walked around looking at the many displays, and then enjoyed a show that featured Chinese dance and culture.  Interestingly, the “Chinese” themes included a Tibetan dance, in addition to the expected Mongolian and other more usual Chinese art forms.  Tibet was invaded by China in 1950 under the orders of Mao Zedong, and remains occupied to this day.  

Albuquerque Vista,  Sandia Crest
We drove to Santa Fe to visit that historic town, by driving on the eastern side of the mountains that tower over Albuquerque.  The “Turquois Trail” included a stop at the top of Sandia Crest overlooking Albuquerque, for a fabulous vista, and wandered through the numerous mining towns.  The mining efforts include the “most expensive” type of turquois, silver and gold, but those towns now focus on the tourist trade.  We passed many art, craft and jewelry studios on the way; another income source for the locals.   

Saint Francis de Asis, Santa Fe
Santa Fe is the capital of NM and a college town, with all the usual college, culture and government type buildings.  We spent all our time in the historic area which included the “oldest house” in North America, the oldest church in Santa Fe (a mission church), the “newer’ cathedral, and of course the Governors “Palace” (with floor windows to show the original dirt floors).  The archeological excavations and restorations of these buildings have all been done quite well, and the history is very interesting.  Because St. Augustine is the oldest continuously lived in city in the US, we researched the claim of the “oldest house”.  It is not, according to Google, the oldest residential house which is actually in Fairbanks MA, built in 1637.  However, the Governors Palace was built in 1610.   

The most interesting historical venue was the “counter cultural” exhibit at the New Mexico Museum of History.  It showed the history and impact of the mid-to-late 1960s idealist counter culture, or hippie revolution.  Many of these free spirit hippies ended up in Taos NM, an under-populated area where they could set up collective farms and communities.  It was a “blast from the past” to go through that exhibit and see what some of our generation was doing, while others of us were serving in Vietnam.  Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed in the exhibit; it would have been fun to share some of the memories the exhibition brought back to both of us.   

Sanctuario de Chimayo, Chimayo
We took the “High Road to Taos” scenic byway to Taos on another day, and enjoyed the Truncas Mountains as we drove into Taos.   We stopped at the Sanctuario de Chimayo, an old mission church in the countryside that is legendary for healing the sick.  The historic church has five beautiful, wall-sized, hand painted wood panels that are the entire decoration for the otherwise bare adobe walls. A small room located next to the sacristy features a hole in the floor from which “cure seekers” pull handfuls of earth to rub on their bodies. We didn’t see any cure seekers while we were there…only tourists like us. Again, we cannot share this as pictures were not allowed.  

Taos Pueblo,  Taos, NM
After realizing that Taos has become just another ski town with a shopping problem, we spent most of our visit at the Taos Pueblo.  In the Taos culture, a Pueblo can be a village, a house, or houses.  It truly is one of the oldest continuously lived in “homes” in the US.  Initially founded in about 1000 AD, this adobe pueblo has been expanded and occupied continuously since that time.  It consists of several “sections”, including a large five-level pueblo consisting of many rooms.  The pueblo is still being used today, although not many of the “homes” are still used for that purpose.  The Historic Pueblo has no running water, sewers, bathrooms, electric or heat or AC.  They have been modernized in that doors from the street are used to enter the buildings, rather than ladders coming into the home through the roof (for defense).  Only about 150 people live full time within the Pueblo.  Most of the pueblos are now shops or restaurants for tourists visiting the pueblo.  Other families owning homes in the north or south buildings live in summer homes near their fields, and in more modern homes outside the old walls but still within the Pueblo land.  There are over 1900 Taos Indians living on Taos Pueblo lands.     

Rio Grande River, Low Road to Taos
We drove the “Low Road to Taos” back to Albuquerque; the road followed the Rio Grande River and through the Rio Grande River Valley, all the way from Taos to Albuquerque. The valley is full of agriculture and it is easy to see why the Ancestral Puebloans moved from the dryer Mesa Verde and Four Corners area to this area about 1300 AD (see our last blog post for more information). 
 
Petroglyphs, Petroglyphs Ntl Mon
We hiked the Petroglyphs National Monument in Albuquerque to see numerous petroglyphs left by the ancestral Puebloans as art, directions, spiritual, and just plain graffiti.  This is the largest “collection” of Petroglyphs in the US.  The large basalt boulders from the lava flows provide huge, flat surfaces on which to draw.  Additionally, the desert patina causes a dark coating on the rock which is removed with stone tools to reveal the lighter rock below, the perfect canvas for petroglyphs.  The petroglyphs have been dated from several thousand years ago to recent, but the majority are from ancestral Puebloans from about 1000 AD to 1700 AD, with a significant increase about 1300 AD, when there was a huge migration into the area.    

TePee Curios, Tucumcari NM
We left Albuquerque on Interstate 40 which parallels the historic Route 66. We travelled sections of Route 66 where most of the historic buildings along the way are just derelict buildings and signs, left to crumble in the dry desert air.  We stopped at a couple of towns, but the best preserved and restored buildings and signs were in Tucumcari NM.  Tucumcari has made an effort to restore many of the fluorescent signs, and building fronts, even adding murals to capture the essence of the road during the 30s, 40s and 50s.  We had lunch at Dels, one of the original restaurants, which has been serving since 1954.   It would have been great to see some of the signs lit at night.

Phil, Laurie and Bob
We are now headed east and traveling fast to get back to Florida and some warmth.  We stopped to spend two delightful days with our Laguna Beach friends Laurie and Phil Owens, who recently moved into a beautiful new house north of Dallas.  We shared good memories, food and wine with them, and helped them celebrate Laurie’s mom’s, Francis, 99th Birthday.   

Illinois Monument, Vicksburg Ntl Military Park
Vicksburg was another one day stop.  Bob has always wanted to visit the Vicksburg National Military Park.  Like Gettysburg, the victory for the Union at Vicksburg was instrumental in ending the Civil War.  Vicksburg was critical for the Union to control the Mississippi River and split the Confederacy in two.  The city was so well fortified, that after several attempts, Grant realized that any more direct assaults could not succeed; therefore, he imposed a siege instead.  After only a 2-month long siege, with the city cut off from supplies, the battle was won by the Union.   

Downtown Vicksburg MS
Vicksburg itself is a cute, true southern town, with several antebellum homes nearby.  Although we didn’t get a chance to visit any of them, we did visit the Corps of Engineers Lower Mississippi River Basin Museum; Bob, a prior Corps employee, really wanted to see it.  It had a great overview of the historic flooding on the Mississippi River, and the impact the Corps of Engineers had on reducing flooding by building levees, dykes, dams, and other flood control structures post the 1927 great flood. Unfortunately, in 2011, another historic flood took place anyway.  We enjoyed a glass of wine and views of the historic Yazoo River flowing into the mighty Mississippi River from the roof top bar of the tallest building in Vicksburg (10th floor).

Linda and Mildred
Our last stop on the way to Florida was to visit Bob’s aunt, Mildred Whitlock, in Tuscaloosa Alabama.  We enjoyed dinner with her before heading south to Florida.  It is always good to visit with friends and family, and it is one of the advantages of our journey that we will certainly miss. 

We are now back in Florida.  Our 3 year adventure has come to an end.  Before we go back to St. Augustine, we will be spending a little time exploring housing opportunities on the west coast of Florida.  

We will do one more post, with our thoughts and feelings, and perhaps some statistics about this 3-year adventure.  We continue to thank God for his blessings and the opportunity to explore this beautiful country and meet so many wonderful Americans along the way.  

Feel free to pass the blog link on to anyone who might be interested.  

Best to all,
Linda and Bob  

 

 


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